Filled with anticipation and a thirst for adventure, we arrive in Zillertal – this, for many Scandinavians, is an unknown but vast valley located a few miles east of Innsbruck, stretching all the way to the Italian border in the south.
We have three nights ahead of us in Zillertal, and the schedule is packed. The size of Zillertal quickly makes us realize that we will only scratch the surface of what it has to offer.
Day 1: Via Ferrata Adventure in Mayrhofen
To kickstart our first adventure, we tackle a Via Ferrata in Mayrhofen, which is the valley’s central town. With its 4,000 inhabitants, it’s not a metropolis, but don’t be fooled by its size. Everyone we meet is used to welcoming tourists with a big smile.
What is a Via Ferrata?
A Via Ferrata is a mix of a climbing and hiking trail. It typically goes through steep terrain and is equipped with cables, steps, and grips to aid the ascent. Climbing equipment secured to the cables is often required. They range in difficulty from simple walks to challenging climbs.
Returning to our Via Ferrata experience:
We rent climbing gear at the base of the mountain, and after a brief introduction, we begin our ascent.
The family-friendly route we take lasts nearly two hours compared to the approximately 40 minutes the pure hiking trail takes. It’s not overly strenuous, but we soon break a sweat. There are plenty of opportunities to pause and rest, and everyone can climb at their own pace.
As long as no one is afraid of heights, this is an adventure for the whole family (from six years old).
Reaching the top, we proudly look down after overcoming countless obstacles. The eldest son, however, is a bit disappointed we don’t have time to do it again, this time opting for a more challenging route.
Afternoon at Ahorn
We descend back into the valley but quickly turn around – this time heading back up. The lift system to Ahorn is a marvel of modernity, and we are impressed by how contemporary and fresh everything is.
At the top, we wander aimlessly for a while, enjoying the weather and the view while the children burn off any remaining energy. Soon, we arrive at Ahornsee, inviting cold dips and lots of play for the kids.
After a quick swim, we head back to Ahornhütte for a hearty lunch, marveling at how much tastier and fresher the food is compared to what we’re used to in the Alpine ski slopes. We magically manage to secure what must be the best table, with a panoramic view of the dramatic mountains, cliffs, waterfalls, snow-capped peaks, and mysterious forests. Heiße Liebe becomes a new favorite dessert, and rarely has an Aperol Spritz tasted so good.
Like many things in Zillertal, Ahornhütte is family-owned, and soon we are chatting with the owner, Mr. Siller, who tells us about the business. When he mentions that he rents out apartments at the top, our curiosity is piqued. We get a tour of modern but simple and traditionally furnished apartments that can accommodate up to six people, though in our opinion, four would be more comfortable. The apartments feature a basic kitchenette and all have fantastic balconies. After the lift closes at 5 PM and the mountain empties of people, having the mountain entirely to oneself must be a grand experience, both in summer and winter!
Encounter with Falcons and Owls at FalknerOase
After lunch, we continue our walk among the free-roaming cows with their bells, soon reaching our next stop – FalknerOase. Here, we get to know falcons and owls up close as they swoop over our heads, their feathers brushing our scalps as they land half a meter away. These are beautiful and powerful creatures to experience so closely. Unfortunately, the show is mostly in German, and unless you’re fluent, much of the information will be lost. Despite this, it’s a memorable experience and a great conclusion before we head to the top station and descend into the valley again.
Day 2: Adapting to the Weather and Indoor Fun
The next day, we are not greeted by the brilliant sunshine that the forecast had promised as recently as the day before. Instead, heavy clouds hang low, and soon enough, it starts to thunder and eventually rain.
This is a reminder of the changing weather in mountain regions and the importance of having both rain gear and a flexible attitude towards planned activities.
Today’s hike is shelved, and instead, we head to the newly built Visorium in Mayrhofen. Here, the children are saved by several games of laser tag and a round of mini-golf in a Tyrolean setting.
Between activities, we enjoy a really good lunch, impressed by the classic dish spätzle.
When we are done, the rain has let up for a few hours, and back at the hotel, we embark on a spontaneous short hike in the neighborhood before it’s time for pool followed by dinner.
Day 3: Hintertux Glacier and Natureispalast
On our last day in Zillertal, we are determined to experience as much as possible, so we drive to the far end of the valley to Hintertux, where the glacier stands at 3,250 meters high. This glacier, with its 1,000-year-old ice, allows for year-round skiing – even now in the summer!
The gondola ride up is impressive and can be challenging for those afraid of heights. Marmots running around on the ground below are amusing to watch, and looking up, we see the barren landscape resulting from the high altitude.
At the top, the view is stunning, and just 5 kilometers away, we see the Italian parts of the mountain range. After a short walk, we reach Natureispalast, a cave system within the glacier.
We venture inside with our guide, who tells us about the glacier’s nature and structure with many interesting anecdotes and frightening facts about crevasses. Deep within the glacier, we find ourselves 20 meters below the piste, with countless tons of ice above our heads, fascinated by nature’s creations in the form of gigantic twisted icicles, deep crevices, and large halls. At the end of the hour-long tour, we board a boat and sail on the meltwater river. When we finally leave the cave system, daylight and the warmth of the sun’s rays hit us.
We now have the choice to either tackle the slopes or go slightly lower and hike in the more traditional and lush summer landscape. Both options are tempting, but it’s nearing lunchtime, and our picnic will be more enjoyable a thousand meters lower, so we take the lift down to Sommerbergalm to start our descent on foot.
The hike down to the valley takes about an hour, but the terrain starts off quite steep with rugged trails, making us stop frequently to admire the scenery. It is truly beautiful, and the drama and contrasts created by the mountains are captivating.
After the initial steep section, we enter a peaceful valley and set up our picnic by the stream, where we refill our water bottles and enjoy the sunlight. The children play in the stream, dipping their feet and playing to the sound of cascading waterfalls.
Conclusion: Leaving Zillertal with a Desire to Return
Energized after our meal, we continue our hike and soon find ourselves among cow pastures, nearing the valley station where our car is parked. After this final Zillertal adventure, we leave with a strong feeling that we must return. Everything has been consistently enjoyable and well-organized, and we have so much left to experience. We’ve only scratched the surface, and we still have the entire winter season to explore!
